BrickSpeed

Josh says a thin layer of RTV will do it. We'll try it. Anyone know the bolt size?

Go to local aircraft repair shop and ask for used rod tube rubber gaskets, Lycoming O-320->360 fits. Continental ones are too big but can be fitted and gives a tighter seal.

(05-14-2013 05:21 PM)WindowsBreakerG4 Wrote:  Mine is leaking a lot, like 1 quart per 500 a lot, anyone had any luck using RTV?
when I did the 15g swap I cut the gasket when I was inserting it into the block. Since I had to daily the car while I was waiting for a new one, I used some RTV and the remnants of the old gasket and it leaked slightly less. You can get away with it for a few days but I would order the new gasket quickly.

Mine is leaking a lot, like 1 quart per 500 a lot, anyone had any luck using RTV?

Finally some updated pics of ye olde vagon. Muchas Gracias to Tony for snapping these pics while we were in SLO for WM4.0, they came out great!















The rest of the pics are in my pbase gallery, as well they're on Tony's hosting site.

For mechanical updates, refer to the timeline in post #3 on page 1.

The lower stereo spot used a flat metal bracket with the appropriate sized hole for the stereo. Crutchfield used to sell it. It was a single din size and I put a clarion tape player in there in the 90s for the turbo. I've also used the original Volvo one and cut the hole larger. My 93 has an amp in the lower spot with the storage cubby being smaller to fit it. I kept the stereo at the top in that and put a voltmeter in one of the gauge spots.

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Yea I've seen it for sale by Colorado Volvo a few times... they're kinda a junking company that gets ahold of alotta odd Volvo parts. Almost bought it.... but that's the easy part, getting the kit in to actually move the stereo could be an ass pain. Prolly gonna do it tho... put an oil cooler in the other day, wanna get some numbers so I can compare with others.

If you move the stereo to the lower area you have room for five gauges. Or, you can put less critical gauges down low where the lower stereo spot is. That would also fit three gauges. VDO used to sell a filler panel so you could replace the stereo spot with a three gauge panel that fits a stereo hole.

Ohh cool. I get what you mean by the key. I was thinking of the lil rubber feet things that stick in the sides. Right now I have a stereo in the place where other gauges could be. Just going with boost nd oil pressure for now. May move the stereo...idk.... constant internal debate on that one.

I know this may seem a little odd, but it will make a little more sense. Many of you have swapped your wagons over to the smooth style 960/V90 liftgate handle. Well, as you may know, the lock cylinders will NOT swap over, so you can either not have a lock back there, or if you gut it, then it'll work but it'll work with ANY key. Well, that's simply not acceptable.

So here's the deal...

Find yourself a 960 with a full set of cores and a key (V90 may be the same, front lock cores are different, dunno if the linkage is the same or not). If you have a sedan, grab the trunk lock and doors. Wagon grab the doors, liftgate, and cargo cover locks. You can figure out the R&R for the cores, it's way simple. When it comes to the liftgate, the core will already be in it and working, so that's not an issue at all. Follow the normal instructions for that swap. Cargo cover is a 30 second swap. Not sure on the trunk lock, you're on your own for that one.

Now, when it comes to the front doors there is a compatibility issue with the different cores. Fitment is fine, but the linkage setup is different. If you swap it in you will end up with about 15* total movement in the key to get you full lock/unlock movement, which makes it VERY finicky. It works, but...

The reason for this is the 7-series allows for movement at the lock core, where the 960 allows for movement at the latch. Latches are different as well, so your options are limited.



So, take your lock cores and set them side by side. As you can see, they are indeed different. Pull the snap rings off both cores, pull the linkage plate off (be careful of the spring, it will try and spring off if you're not careful).



Next you will need to either make or buy (assuming you can buy one, I opted for making one) a key. Slide the linkage plate from the 7xx core onto the shaft from the 960 core and you will see a keyway in each core. Because they flipped which one has the keyway, this allows you to just make a key instead of anything more difficult.



Once you have your keyway made, install it into the slot between the plate and the core. I only used one keyway for now, not sure on longevity yet but I will let you guys know if it fails. If you are concerned, you can make a keyway for the other side as well. Keep in mind these parts do mot move independent of each other, so it's simply preventing movement, on a part with minimal loading.



Reinstall the circlip, placing the solid part of the clip over your key.



Install the lock core as you normally would, and test that everything works. If you did it right, you're all set. If not, well, that's on you. :-P

(05-02-2013 11:59 PM)745 TurboGreasel Wrote:  Local guy has 2 of those, and drives one enough I see it fairly often.
I don't think they get 15K.
I had a real nice chat with Mr. Gordon of Gordon Imports; basically he owns the remaining stock of Amphicar parts, and all of the tooling to make more, really amazing. Virtually every part is available and in stock.

Really nice to talk to, I'm sure your guy must know of him.

Re. the price he says it all comes down to how original it is, I guess there's some specific voodoo especially related to keeping it afloat and if any of that magic has gone wrong over the years it's an expensive proposition putting it right.

Agreed that for that price it would be a zero sum game by the time it was back over there and gone through, sure would be fun to play with though.
___________________________

Beautiful '73 280 2-door Benz.





Out of inspection but said to need only the lightest of touches here and there, runs and drives. $3k

http://page16.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u46464302

(05-01-2013 05:08 PM)scottyd Wrote:  Can you datalog in TunerPro?

Edit://TunerPro RT says it can log WB: http://www.tunerpro.net/features.htm
The challenge lies in relaying the signal from the 0-5v output in the wideband and the software.

I much less know how to get the drivers to work for the PLX's alleged USB output :/

Yes, the stock gauges have a little plastic piece to align them. In the turbo I replaced the stock 52mm gauges with VDO vision series. They come with different colors so you can have a choice of illumination. I use the green so they look like a stock installation. I put in boost, oil temp instead of a clock, oil pressure and volts. I like them a lot. All the 52 mm gauges fit in the stock locations.

EZK wise (dunno much about the ECU, its of no use to me )

27SF512 is not the best choice but usable, 27SF512 is a 64K*8 (512K) eeprom. If you use it put the 256K firmware in the upper 256K (A15 is hardwired to VCC). Also worth noticing A14 is either under MCU control (R951), or hardwired to VCC by R950 depending on the EZK.

A better choice would be 28C256 eeprom, its a direct replacement for the Bosch Bxxxxx 32K*8 (256K) eprom, just make sure that R950 is installed and R951 is not.

27SF512:
Size: 64K*8 (512K)
R950 installed: A14 to VCC (OK)
R951 installed: A14 to MCU A14 (EZK controlled bank switching)
A15: Hardwired to VCC (Hardwired to high bank, therefore 256K firmware must reside in high bank)

28C256:
Size: 32K*8 (256K)
R950 installed: /WE to VCC (Write disabled)
R951 installed: /WE to MCU A14 (Do NOT install !)
A14: Hardwired to VCC (OK)

27C256 (same as original Bosch Bxxxxx chip):
Size: 32K*8 (256K)
R950 installed: A14 to VCC (High bank selected)
R951 installed: A14 to MCU A14 (EZK controlled bank switching)
VPP: Hardwired to VCC (OK)


Hope it all makes sense

I remember that car! It was a damn shame Bryce sent it off to the scrap yard...

The 82 244 turbo in this picture of my car stable at the time was originally a JDM car by all the info I could gather. It was a left hand drive with all the underhood stickers were in Japanese, and it had a B21FT and an automatic.

(10-17-2012 02:00 PM)WindowsBreakerG4 Wrote:  I really wish japan was LHD. Why, RHD is't a problem in Cali.

(03-24-2013 09:53 PM)Shifted Wrote:  Here's something that doesn't often appear.



Original Amphicar 770, low low miles. Local guy has 2 of those, and drives one enough I see it fairly often.
I don't think they get 15K.

... Or for essentially the same coin go a couple miles up the tracks and grab a nice lil low-mileage Alpha, fully inspected and insured for nearly another year... :eshrug:



http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d141041078

Whatever turns your crank...

Just broke in @137k miles, drive it away today for $1k; inspection and taxes due this month.











http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e131790326

https://box.yahoo.co.jp/guest/viewer?sid...26lm%3D100

Unless you can't.

Right in your backyard DW.