Post: #26

The sound is too rhythmic to be something banging around in the cylinder. I'd think if there was a bolt or something in there it'd clatter more randomly, myself. But check it anyway - at the very least pull the plugs and check the tops of the cylinders for damage - hell maybe even run a telescoping magnetic pickup into the bores to see if you get any residue or a big chunk.

My guess is a long bolt on the water pump pulley making contact with the pump itself though.

Post: #27

for what it's worth, the sound to me sounds like it is coming from the head, it certainly sounds like something hitting against aluminium rather than cast iron.

1985 Volvo 245DL "The Battlewagon"
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle "Diego"

Post: #28

(01-19-2012 04:15 AM)volvogeek Wrote:  The sound is too rhythmic to be something banging around in the cylinder. I'd think if there was a bolt or something in there it'd clatter more randomly, myself.

I was thinking the same thing but if you listen closely, the noise isn't quite as steady as I thought it was at first.

Post: #29

Stop cranking, turn the engine over by hand to see if you have mechanical interference for some reason, and pull the plugs and look in each cylinder.

Recheck the timing belt settings, sometimes you have to have it a little off on install to let the tensioner pull it into place.

Make sure that all the slack in the belt is gathered to the tensioner side, and not the part between the crank, drive and cam (on the right as you look at it from the front), that portion of the belt should be as snug as possible before releasing the tensioner.

Post: #30

Well watching the video again and again. It doesn't make the noise when cranking which is odd

Post: #31

Pull the coil wire and fuel pump fuse and crank it for 5 to 10 seconds and see if it makes the noise.

Post: #32

If there's something in the combustion chamber that's causing this sound it won't necessarily cause interference when turning the engine over by hand or during cranking. I've diagnosed a similar problem after a tech left a bolt in the combustion chamber after an HG job on a customer car. Once the object gets pounded into the roof of the head you'll only hear it while the engine is running.

Post: #33

(01-19-2012 02:01 PM)Gross Polluter Wrote:  If there's something in the combustion chamber that's causing this sound it won't necessarily cause interference when turning the engine over by hand or during cranking. I've diagnosed a similar problem after a tech left a bolt in the combustion chamber after an HG job on a customer car. Once the object gets pounded into the roof of the head you'll only hear it while the engine is running.

This.
I have seen the same thing

Post: #34

I took the day off to figure out what the hell is wrong.
First things first...The waterpump pulley was loose...The alternator is loose (The bolts won't tighten anymore...are there bushings that may be missing?) and the stamped metal t-belt sheild is loose and when I moved it it definately sounded like the noise...
Also, the cam "bridges" (whatever holds the cam down....2,3,4 and 5 were backwards) I don't know if that would cause any weird vibrations but I turned them around.
Still doesn't explain why it won't idle. I will take some pictures and upload them shortly.

Post: #35

(01-19-2012 04:32 PM)inthetwisties Wrote:  I took the day off to figure out what the hell is wrong.
First things first...The waterpump pulley was loose...The alternator is loose (The bolts won't tighten anymore...are there bushings that may be missing?) and the stamped metal t-belt sheild is loose and when I moved it it definately sounded like the noise...
Also, the cam "bridges" (whatever holds the cam down....2,3,4 and 5 were backwards) I don't know if that would cause any weird vibrations but I turned them around.
Still doesn't explain why it won't idle. I will take some pictures and upload them shortly.

Ahh, just the shield vibrating ehh?

the accessories should have bushings where they pivot on the bracket attached to the engine, if those are missing i could see it making a horrible noise.

The "bridges" you are talking about are the bearing caps, inside of those are bearings. You MUST be sure those are torqued to spec or you may damage the cam or worse!!

Don't worry about the idle for now, make sure that metal noise is just something on the engine, not inside. Once you're sure of that, move on to fixing the idle (i'm thinking it's k-jet related).

Post: #36

+1
.

Post: #37

Ok, the alternator, waterpump pulley and timing belt cover are no longer loose. I'm going to try and figure out my idle problem before I put it back together and fire it up. I bought this car with most of these vacuum lines not connected to anything...and i couldn't find any good diagrams to go off of so I connected them how I thought they went...here are the pictures of the timing marks:




Look alright?
My timing belt doesn't have ANY marks...
Ok, on to the vacuum lines:
What is this off of the disrtibutor and where should the line go?

Ok, this is the control pressure reg.? Should that line just be venting down?

What is this yellow and black "thing" and where should it connect to?

I just feel like this isn't right?

What goes in these two ports on the front? The one on the right was just capped off?

What is this?

Post: #38

If you tried to start the car with all those vacuum lines off, that would be why it wouldn't idle. I wish I could help you with vacuum routing, but I don't know the routing of kjet setups. I can tell you the last pic is the line which feeds the heater controls, and the rest of them feed signal to things like the turbo, boost gauge, and charcoal canister. the "two ports on the front" should be the ones that go to the canister. If it wasn't hooked up, i suggest you do so, it is important and there are no negatives to having a working charcoal canister set up. It even feeds vacuum to the gas tank to minimize fuel vapors.

the blue thing is the cold start injector, definitely necessary for colder environments and the FI expects it to be working.

Timing looks good, though I can't tell where the crank is without the pulley on it.

Post: #39

More info for you:






Actually, just look here:
http://www.davebarton.com/volvovacuumdiagrams.html

Post: #40

They weren't all disconnected...I prob just didn't have them in the right spot...I've been on DaveBarton's site and, although the diagrams help...they don't cover everything.
So, I need to run a vacuum line from the inner temp valve port all the way up to the port on the TB?
What is that thing off of the distributor? And where does it's Vacuum line go?

Post: #41

(01-19-2012 08:25 PM)inthetwisties Wrote:  What is that thing off of the distributor? And where does it's Vacuum line go?

That should be the vacuum advance, i think. It just needs a vacuum signal from any available vacuum port on the engine side of the manifold (not before the throttle body).

(01-19-2012 08:25 PM)inthetwisties Wrote:  So, I need to run a vacuum line from the inner temp valve port all the way up to the port on the TB?

I'd agree with that. Hell, that alone might be why it stalled out, no cold enrichment.

Post: #42

I think all the diagrams orie has provided should get you going. Check those out and let us know.

Post: #43

Fixed it
It was a combination of the alternator (bushings were shot), and me not having the timing belt cover on.
Also got the car in time.
Started her up tonight and she ran oh so smoothly...only problem is it won't idle.
I did remove the shield over the exhause mani and hose that goes into the intake...would that effect it since it's about 30deg. outside?
I drove it around the block and as long as the revs were over 2k it ran perfectly fine...but under that it tries to stall (more so stalls every time)...then it would take a couple of cranks to get it going again and as long as I give it throttle it's fine...but it really tries to stall
sooo, I'm sure you all know what this leads to lol.
What's wrong here?

Post: #44

I have the vacuum line from the distributor going under the 5th inj.
Both lines from the CPR tee'd into each other and going to the top port of the temp. valve, the bottom port is ran to the smaller of the two ports on the throttle body.
I don't have a charcoal canister.

Post: #45

Did you set the ignition timing?

Post: #46

I set everything on the tdc marks...the rotor was set to the little mark on the distributor.
So excuse my ignorance but what else would I need to do for ignition timing

Post: #47

(01-20-2012 01:26 AM)inthetwisties Wrote:  Fixed it
It was a combination of the alternator (bushings were shot), and me not having the timing belt cover on.
Also got the car in time.
Started her up tonight and she ran oh so smoothly...only problem is it won't idle.
I did remove the shield over the exhause mani and hose that goes into the intake...would that effect it since it's about 30deg. outside?
I drove it around the block and as long as the revs were over 2k it ran perfectly fine...but under that it tries to stall (more so stalls every time)...then it would take a couple of cranks to get it going again and as long as I give it throttle it's fine...but it really tries to stall
sooo, I'm sure you all know what this leads to lol.
What's wrong here?

You've got a vacuum leak somewhere. Make sure IAC is hooked back up. I know it doesn't like those charcoal canister ones undone. Cap those if you can. Triple check your IC hoses.

Post: #48

Thats what I thought but I don't have any more lines left? There were three hoses tied together underneath the car under the front left(driver side) that I'm assuming were for the canister when it had it. One was tee'd into the distributor line, one went somewhere else and the other goes into the tranny tunnel..I left that one cause I didn't feel like tracing it. Know where they would go? I will take more pictures tomorrow but no port on the intake manifold was left open. I plugged off the smaller opening in the turbo inlet (intake)...can't remember what it was for but I don't think it was hooked into anything. Uhm...and the bigger of the two ports on the throttle body I capped off...I'm pretty sure it went to the canister but not 100%...any input?

Post: #49

IAC was never unhooked. Well, only the sensor...but I'm almost 100% it's plugged back in...I will fell pretty dumb if it fell off. But I feel like it'd be tough for it to since it has the metal holder around it

Post: #50

The line that goes from the canister under the tunnel goes to the fuel tank.

To set the ignition timing correctly you need a timing light.