Post: #1

Always liked the way these look. My 1st thought was LS swap, add wheels drop it a bit and drive it. Now I'm not so sure. Its pretty original. Seats have been swapped out.
Any B30 experts want to tell me water pump sealing secrets?
Last owner parked it after the new water pump leaked.

It does come with a factory service manual.
   

Post: #2

Looks like a good project. Sealing the water pump means being very careful that the O rings are seated properly. It's not that bad a job.

They are nice cars but you should be aware that most anything specific to the car is getting hard to find and/or very expensive. For example the steering column has a ujoint. It is not replaceable like the 240 ones are. You have to replace the steering column in the engine compartment if the ujoint is bad. The only thing available is good used if you can find it.
That part doesn't go bad a lot but if it does it could be a long search to find a good used column.

Post: #3

I want.

Post: #4

Make sure the bottom of the head is nice and clean, where the o-rings sit. Us new o-rings, after use theyr'e flattend out and can't really be reused.

The main trick is that the water pump doesn't simply bolt on. It bolts to the block, bolts pressing it backwards. But it also needs to seal upwards, pressing those rings into the overhanging head. Bolt it on, and with the bolts still loose, gently pry it *upward* while you tighten them the last bit. Pushing the o-rings against the head and holding them there.

Post: #5

PS: Probably a nearly impossible task these days, but if I had that I'd try to track down some earlier style bumpers. The accentuate the grill shape, instead of merely being a park bench slab underneath it:



I guess the ones above will work better if you run it into a brick wall at 7.5 mph, but the older ones just look so much better.

Post: #6

(05-14-2012 09:23 AM)JohnMc Wrote:  PS: I'd try to track down some earlier style bumpers. the older ones just look so much better.

I hear you! Much more refined looking however if you look close you would need the whole front end (grill area anyway) because the grill is lower and deeper.
The chrome headlight trim is interesting. Might consider that. ???

Side note My 3 kids all like it. Didn't see that coming. There words: "Mackin'" 17 yo boy. "Awesome, looks like a Bentley" 22 yo girl. "Its not horrible, actually kinda cool" 14 yo boy.

Post: #7

What trans does it have? 160s are awesome.

Post: #8

(05-14-2012 06:44 PM)WindowsBreakerG4 Wrote:  What trans does it have? 160s are awesome.

ATM not sure which? Bring it home tuesday!

Post: #9

a sick find and a brave soul to take it on, best wishes!

Post: #10

(05-14-2012 07:24 PM)Coupe' de Tat Wrote:  a sick find and a brave soul to take it on, best wishes!

I was looking for something so I could say no. ODO says 104K I believe it but don't know for sure. Both headlight trim are dented and a door molding was missing.
Both came with the car.
Hit the key and it started so fast it startled me. Purred like a kitten.
I just had to have it. If I only keep it for the summer it'll be worth it.
Not sure of the long term plan yet.

Post: #11

IIRC, from the ad, it was an auto. Is that correct? If so, then it's a Bw35. Try to locate a M410. Won't necessarily help with gas mileage, but should make it a little more enjoyable to drive. One recommendation: put some heavy duty sway bars on it. The 164E that I had for a while understeered like a pig, due to it being so nose-heavy.

Bumper-wise, find a '73. Get both the front and rear bumpers. Attach them to the bumper shocks, provided that the rear bumper has the bolt that holds it to each shock, instead of using the 240 style shocks with the mounting plates, studs, and nuts. You will need to fill trim holes on the rear quarters, since the 1973 bumper just has a small lip that overhangs the center part of the rear bumper, as seen on my old 145E below:



-J

Post: #12

Color me jelly.
I can't wait to see what you do with the old girl!

Post: #13

Picked it up and got it home had my 14 yo drive (steer) it down the ramps.
Drove it just to snap pics next to the Amazon. Brakes may need work? Something was dragging? Too late to dig into it.
Looking forword to driving it! The Mrs. is out of work (as of) today so the timing sucks.
She did have a big smile on her face when we pulled in. She's the true longtime Volvo fan. I'm getting there.
   
   
   
   

Post: #14

it only sounds like they drag when they've been sitting

Post: #15

(05-16-2012 12:38 AM)Coupe' de Tat Wrote:  it only sounds like they drag when they've been sitting

Maybe the tranny is tired? wasn't moving briskly. E-brake cable(s) could be corroded? I'll find out soon enough.

Post: #16

if theyre anything like the 200s tthe parking brake can stick

Post: #17

(05-16-2012 02:30 AM)Coupe' de Tat Wrote:  if theyre anything like the 200s tthe parking brake can stick

Might be. Had the brake light on like the e-brake was pulled up, but wasn't.
Also had a brake failure light on, I figured that was due to a brake light bulb out?

Post: #18

IIRC Brake failure usually means you've got a dead line on those.

The later 240s etc meant low fluid.

Post: #19

(05-16-2012 11:03 AM)nonhog Wrote:  

(05-16-2012 02:30 AM)Coupe' de Tat Wrote:  if theyre anything like the 200s tthe parking brake can stick

Might be. Had the brake light on like the e-brake was pulled up, but wasn't.
Also had a brake failure light on, I figured that was due to a brake light bulb out?

Brake failure light on the 140/160 series means that the differential pressure between the two hydraulic brake circuits are too large. The sensor sits in the junction block on the left inner fender just below the master cylinder. IIRC the sensor is (or can be) destroyed when the differential pressure becomes too large.

Try detaching the wire from the sensor, that should turn off the failure light. If it turns off you have a leak in one of the brake circuits, or someone bleed the brakes without unscrewing the sensor. Please think twice before driving the car without verifying that you do not have any leaks in the brake circuits.

Post: #20

so these are like 200 brakes then, dual circuit, with the j-box/warning switch combo? the 244t leaked AT the warning switch port. if it leaks at the switch, don't replace the switch, do the whole thing as the seals are internal and a new switch comes with already installed.

Post: #21

My brake warning light is on as well, bad sensor in my case.

Post: #22

if it's like the 200 series it can be reset by removing the switch and a few good stomps on the pedal to re center the plunger, reinstall switch, check with DMM

Post: #23

(05-16-2012 02:54 PM)Coupe' de Tat Wrote:  if it's like the 200 series it can be reset by removing the switch and a few good stomps on the pedal to re center the plunger, reinstall switch, check with DMM

And not only that (or in addition to, whatever) - the switch wont ever reset until it's removed. Once the pistons slides over to one side (pressure differential) the switch pops down and holds it there. This is so the warning light comes on and stays on until the owner takes it somewhere and has the brakes fixed.

Post: #24

Thanks everybody for the input. Helps much! Now I have a direction to head.
But wouldn't you know it I woke up feeling like crap. Just in time for the weekend.
Should be able to get it in the shop.(a project in itself LOL) and up on stands.
Think I'll try and order a water pump today.

Post: #25

Hurry up and do something. I'm living vicariously through you.