Post: #51

(01-20-2012 03:06 AM)Shifted Wrote:  The line that goes from the canister under the tunnel goes to the fuel tank.

To set the ignition timing correctly you need a timing light.

Should I just cap that line then? Or tee it off into the vacuum line for the distributor?
Then no, I did not. Once running I will prob drive it to a shop and let them do it

Post: #52

It should go into the canister, as designed.

The purpose of that whole setup is to catch expansion gasses from the fuel tank in a way that allows then to be burned up by the engine, instead of escaping somewhere into the air or worse.

Check those diagrams again, but no this should not be in the distributor circuit.

As far as the timing, is it dying because of low idle?

Loosen the distributor bolt just enough to allow movement with some resistance, start, make slow adjustments each way, and see if that improves things.

Post: #53

Make it a practice to completely assemble the motor before you run it glad you got it goin and it was minor stuff

Post: #54

If the vacuum advance isn't working, that plus bad timing could easily be the reason it's stalling at idle.

Post: #55

(01-20-2012 03:30 AM)Shifted Wrote:  It should go into the canister, as designed.

The purpose of that whole setup is to catch expansion gasses from the fuel tank in a way that allows then to be burned up by the engine, instead of escaping somewhere into the air or worse.

Check those diagrams again, but no this should not be in the distributor circuit.

As far as the timing, is it dying because of low idle?

Loosen the distributor bolt just enough to allow movement with some resistance, start, make slow adjustments each way, and see if that improves things.

I didn't take the canister out. The PO did and it did not come with the car.
It will not idle at all, so I don't know if it it because the idle is too low or not.

(01-20-2012 03:49 AM)FalunBrick Wrote:  Make it a practice to completely assemble the motor before you run it glad you got it goin and it was minor stuff

lol I know. All I did was leave the fan and tbelt cover off =p

And the car is in time now...
Just to be sure the vacuum line off the distributor goes to the port on the underside of the mani?

Post: #56

The car will run fine without the vacuum retard working. But you need to have ZERO open ports. Open ports = vacuum leak = poor idle

It will not run fine however if you're IAC is not working properly

Post: #57

(01-20-2012 01:44 PM)scottyd Wrote:  The car will run fine without the vacuum retard working. But you need to have ZERO open ports. Open ports = vacuum leak = poor idle

It will not run fine however if you're IAC is not working properly

I thought you called me a retard lmao...which would be the case after reading back through this thread.
I will try to plug any open ports I see. But as I remember, there were only two and they were plugged.

I plan on taking the IAC out today and cleaning it

Post: #58

(01-20-2012 02:05 PM)inthetwisties Wrote:  I plan on taking the IAC out today and cleaning it

You can test it on the bench if you can safely feed it ONLY +5v.

Post: #59

Have you checked fuel flow to the distributor? I'm old kjet wagon dis the exact same thing it wold turn on and immediately shut off and it was a bad fuel filter

Post: #60

The iac is basically a valve. It doesn't pump air or anything. So when I check them I just disconnect the hoses and Key on engine off to and blow through the side the arrow is pointing away from and see if these a big restriction. You can also watch the motor do its thing with the hoses off

Post: #61

No I haven't checked the fuel flow. I have a new fuel filter coming in anyways It looks original lol.
I just took it off because I took the mani off to check hoses againn anyways

Post: #62

If it idled before this work, i think it's safe to say the fuel filter isn't the problem.

Post: #63

No, but I wanted to replace it anyways.

Post: #64

Mine was okay and then it died out driving on a bumpy road believe it or not.

Post: #65

On a B21FT the small vacuum hose that is on the throttle body is T'd and goes to the distributor. This is ported vacuum which is how they want the distributor vacuum to function. It also gets boost retard that way as well.

Post: #66

i dont know... could it be possible the you had any valvejob and you messed one valve up with the lil 3 ringed clips "dont know what they are called" i always call them nupsies anyway..

they could have come loose which makes it sounds like yours does and idles shitty